Stitchless shirt collar and method of making it



LFeb. 3,'1948. E. c. PFEFFER, JR., l-:rAL 2,435,509

STITCHLESS SHIRT COILAR AND METHOD OFMAKING IT 27, 1943 2 Sheets-Sheet l Filed Dec P fraz/3671x3071;

Feb. 3, 1948. E. c. |=l-'EF|-E|=e, JR., rrr/xl.` 2,435,509

STITCHLESS S-.HIRT COLLAR AND METHOD 0F MAKING IT 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Dec. 27, 1943 4 laurence/ZM' 7' :5f @W @M Y v' M mf" Patented Feb. 3, 1948 STITCHLESS SHIRT COLLAR AND METHOD F MAKING IT Edward C. Pfeffer, Jr., Troy, and Laurence M.

Miller, Albany, N. Y., assignors to Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application December 27, 1943, Serial No. 515,690

3 Claims.

This invention pertains to seams for uniting textile fabrics or the like and to a novel method of making such seams, more particularly to a flexible seam in which the usual stitches are replaced by adhesive. While of general utility, the invention is here more particularly described and illustrated by way of example but Without limitation in its application to certain specific forms of seam, and to the manufacture of shirt collars and shirts.

Heretofore the customary way of uniting the constituent parts of a garment, for instance a shirt collar, has been by sewing them together. Stitched seams provide a satisfactory exible union between such parts but involve the use of a sewing machine; sewing thread which is an expensive material and which tends to produce puckers or wrinkles at the location of the seam; and the employment of a skilled operator in order to attain the speed and accuracy requisite in commercial production; and the completed seam, no matter how carefully formed, shows as a distinct line emphasized by the needle holes in the finished article.

In accordance with the present invention, a durable, flexible, smooth and wrinkleless seam may be formed without the employment of a sewing machine and by operators relatively unskilled, but without sacrifice of speed, and the .completed article is unmarred by any appreciable line or visible change in surface appearance at the location of the seam.

In general, this novel seam involves the employment of a narrow, exible tape of a thermoplastic material, for example a synthetic resin, which is interposed between the plies of fabric which are to be joined and which, when subjected to heat and pressure, fuses and thus permanently joins the fabric plies.

In the accompanying drawing, wherein certain desirable steps in the process of forming such seams and garments comprising seams of this type are illustrated by way of example,

Fig. 1 is a, plan view of a completed collar made in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a fabric blank useful in forming the facing or outer ply of the collar;

Fig. 3 is a plan View of a lining blank having adhesive tape applied to its margins in preparation for folding;

Fig. 4 is a similar view of a blank designed to form the back ply of the collar, this blank also having adhesive tape on its margin;

Fig. 5 is a section on the line 5-5 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a section on the line 6-6 of Fig. 2

Fig. 7 is a section on the line 1-1 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 8 is a section to large scale illustrating the proper relative arrangement of the front, back and lining blanks in assembling them;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8 but showing the first step in the folding of the united blanks;

Fig. l0 is a section to large scale on the line lli-lil of Fig, 11;

Fig. il is a front elevation of the collar after turning but showing the constituent plies separated along the top edge of the collar, and showing adhesive tape interposed between the separated plies;

Fig. 12 is a plan View of a neckband blank with a tape along one margin;

Fig. 13 is a section to large scale through the top edge portion of the collar with the neckband blanks united thereto;

Fig. 14 is a similar view showing the neckband blanks after turning;

Fig. 15 is a plan View to large scale showing one end of the collar with the neckband attached but with the front and rear plies of the neckband turned up;

Fig. 16 is a view similar to Fig. 15 but showing the neckband plies turned down;

Fig, 17 is a section illustrating one way of forming an adhesive seam uniting two plies of fabric;

Fig. 18 illustrates another way of forming a seam; and

Figs. 19 and 20 are sections illustrating still further ways of forming seams uniting fabric plies.

Referring to the drawings, the collar top is indicated at I and the neckband portion at 2. lThe collar top comprises three plies, the facing ply blank being indicated at 3 (Fig. 2), the lining blank at 4 (Fig. 3) and the rear ply or back blank at 5 (Fig. ll). These blanks may be formedv from any usual material (for example woven cotton brcadcloth) employed for the purpose, and may be cut to the proper shape in the usual Way. In accordance with the present invention, the lower edge (upper edge as shown in the drawing) and the ends of the lining blank 4 are provided with a narrow band 6 of adhesive. This band 6 is preferably provided as a narrow tape or ribbon. for example approximately, M3" wide and ofthe order of 0.004" thick, consisting of a thermoplastic resin. rI'he resin selected may, for exam,- ple, be a vinyl acetate-Vinyl chloride copolymer plastic-ized by the incorporation of a suitable plasticizer. For instance, the tape or ribbon mayconsist of 68 parts vinyl acetate-vinyl chloride copolymer, plasticized with 38 parts of di-(2- with Saran (polyvinylidene chloride), polyvinyl` butyral and nylons (polyamides) Whatever the thermoplastic resin which :isV selected, it must be very exible and capableof withstanding the heat and ,pressure informing the bond between the fabric ;par'ts without fdiscoloration or other unfavorable affects; itmust be colorless and substantially unaiected'by Washing fluids or the temperature encountered in CTI heat and pressure so as to bond the top edges of the collar top together.

Neckband blanks II and I2 (Figs. 12, 13 and 14) are provided, such blanks being of the usual size and shape and cut from usual materials (for .example woven cotton'ibroadcloth),and the top edge of each of the respective "blanks are pro- Y vided with narrow bands I3 and I4, respectively, of adhesive tape of the same type as that above preferred Ito; v.are :now assembled with the collar top as shown rihe neckband blanks II and I2 in Fig. 13 and calendered together so that the .adhesivezta'pes ;I3 and I4 engage the facing ply washing; it must be capable fofwithstanding ironing operations without discoloration Vor A,becoming so soft that the seam pulls apart during ironing.; it must provide a seam strong enough to meet 'the requirements of 'the garment manufacturer, and .the seam when formed `must not be unduly s'tii. To 'avoid undue ystiffness and any danger that the resin may be in suicient amount to strike through Vthe fabric, but at the same Atime providing sufficient bond, it appears that the thickness of this tape should not be less than 0.002 nor more' than 05008", preferably about 0.004.

A Having prepared the thermoplastic tape as above suggested, this tape is laid along the -edges of the lining blank, as above stated, Aand vis calendered to the blank so as to adhere to ythe latter. The rear or back blank of 4lthe collar top is likewise provided with a marginal band 'I of the thermoplastic material. Having ,prepared the blanks 3, 4 and 5, and having provided the blanks .4 and 5 with these marginal ,adhesive tapes, the blanks are assembled as shown in Fig. 8 with the .facing blank 3 interposed between r the lining nand rear blanks and with the 'adhesive tapes B and Il disposed in .contact with the facing' blank 3. The marginal portions of the blanks are vnow vsubjected to heat and pressure such as to cause the adhesive to bond :the blanks together along a .narrow marginal area of a width substantially corresponding tothe width of the tape. Temperatures of the order of from 400 to 500 F. are suitable for the purpose, and a pressure of the order `of 133 lbs. per square inch applied for a period of from 1 to 3 seconds is suiiicient to provide the desired intimate bond between the plies; l The points of the ,collar are now preferably trimmed, the collar is turned in accordance with usual practice, and the collar points are formed, all in substantially the same manner as though the blanks had been united by asewed seam.

The top edges of the blanks are now trimmed, and Va length 8 (Figs. 11 and 13) of the thermoplastic tape is now interposed between the facing -blank 3 and the lining blank 4 at the top edge (lower edge as shown in Fig. 11') of the collar top, and .a similar tape 9 is interposed between the lining blank 4 and the rear or back blank 5,. YPreferably this tape9 is sufficiently longer than the top edges `of the blanks so as to provide extensions 9B (Figs. 15 and-16) projecting beyond vthe ends of the collar top. Preferably the tape 9 may be somewhat wider than the other tapes,

for example it may be of a width of 1%", and the extensions 9e may be of a length approximating l/g." Vbyorld the end edges of the collar top.

,Having interposedthe tapes` 8, and 9 between the Y edges of the blanks, the parts are subjectedV to .3 and the lrear. ,ply 5 of the collar top. As illustrated infFi-gs. 15 and 16, the extensions 9 of the tape 9 project beyond the end edges of tHe :collar top, fand after the neckband blanks have .been-turned as shown in Fig. 14, these extensions VJ9a are interposed between the ends of the neckband blanks so as to provide reinforcement at the junction of 'the end of `the collar Atop with the neckband, and to provide additional adhesive material in the ends of the neckband. The end portions of theneckband are now fused together,`

Y wherein two pieces vof fabric I5 'and 'I6 are arranged with their margins "in overlapping relation kwith an adhesive tape I1 interposed between them. vThis, tape is of the typefabove referred to, and the parts I5 and I6 are permanently and flexibly united by subjecting their overlapped portions with the interposed adhesive to heat and pressure. The pressure applied in forming these seams may be that of a hydraulic press, the press'plates being heated electrically or otherwise, but instead of using electrically heated plates, the fusing of the adhesive tape may, `for example, be accomplished by electronic high frequency heating; by vinfra red radiant heating; or by gas heating, and, instead of press platens, rollers may be substituted to provide the desired pressure.

In Fig. 18 there 'is illustrated a lock or box seam uniting two pieces '23 and 26 of fabric. `The piece 23 is doubled at 2`4'to provide the fold 25, and the piece 26 is doubled at 21 to provide the fold 28. The fold A25 is interposed between the body ofthe piece 26 and the fold 28, and the fold 28 is interposed between the body of the part 23 and the fold 25. A ribbon or tape 29 of the thermoplastic material is longitudinally folded into a substantially S-shape in transverse section, the parts of this folded tape being interposed as shown in Fig'. 18 between the fabric plies, and the parts are subjected to heat and pressure, thus permanently uniting `the members 23 and 26 and forming a four-ply seam.

In Fig. .20.another form of seam is illustrated uniting the Vfabric members 30 and 3 3. The part 30 is doubled at, 3l to form the fold 32, and the Dart 33 is doubled at 34 to -form the fold 3 5. The folds 32 and 35 are disposedfsubstantially in the same plane or in alignment, and a tape 36 'of thermoplastic material is disposed asfshown pressure, thus forming a permanent seam to unite the parts.

In Fig. 19 another seam is illustrated wherein the parts I8 and 2| are united by a thermoplastic seam. The part IS is doubled at I9 to provide the fold 20, and interposed between this fold and the part 2| is a thermoplastic tape 22. The parts are subjected to heat .and pressure, thus uniting the members I3 and 2l by a permanent stitchless seam.

As specific examples of the formation of such resin-bonded stitchless seams, the following examples are given:

Eample 1 A plain lap seam is constructed without any stitching by placing two pieces of fabric together, edge over edge, placing a tape of thermoplastic lm between the two pieces of fabric at the overlapping edges and applying heat and pressure to the seam which fuses the resin and thus bonds the seam. The fabric used is a plain-weave cotton broadcloth composed of 40/1 warp and lling yarns weighing 4.0 oz. per yard and having a count of 136 x 60. The thermoplastic lm used may be between .002" and .008l thick, preferably .004 thick, and is a milled lm of 68 parts vinyl acetate-vinyl chloride copolymer plasticized with 32 parts of di-(Z-ethyl hexyl) phthalate. This plasticized resin film is laid along the edge of one piece of fabric and the edge of the other piece of fabric is placed over it. This combination of fabric and resin is then placed between two steel platens, heated by means of electric heating units to a temperature above the softening temperature of the plasticized resin lm, approximately 400 F. in this instance, and pressed together by hydraulic pressure of 133 lbs. per square inch. It is found that one second is sucient time at this temperature and pressure to cause complete fusing of the seam which is then highly resistant to multiple washing and ironing, and can be separated only on application of considerable force, the seam being stronger than the fabric.

The seam as prepared above was subjected to multiple washings, followed by ironing after each wash according to Federal Specifications CCC-T-191a. The seam was examined at periodic intervals, and at the end of 60 l such washes was still firmly fused and free from puckering, usually common in sewn seams due to shrinkage of the thread, or discoloration.

Example 2 The parts for a three-ply collar are out in the regular manner with the top ply consisting of a plain-weave cotton fabric of 5G/2 warp and 'l0/3 filling yarns weighing 6.8 oz. per yard and having a count of 110 x 80. The interliner or lining is a plain-weave cotton fabric made of 14/1 warp and lling yarns with a count of 48 X 48 and weighing 5.6 oz. per yarn. The back or rear ply fabric has a count of 136 X 60 and is a plain-weave cotton fabric composed of 40/1 warp and lling yarns, Weighing 4 oz. per yarn. The band used is twoply, the cotton fabric making up the band has a count of 63 X '22, weighs '7.8 oz. per yard and is a plain-weave fabric made of 16/1 warp and filling yarns. The top ply of the band is treated with 12% resin solution composed of 80 parts VYNW (vinyl chloride-vinyl acetate copolymer) and 20 parts of Flexol DOP plasticizer di-(Z-ethyl hexyl) phthalate. A tape of thermoplastic resin film 14; wide and .094 thick made of 68 parts VYNW and 32 parts of Flexol DOP plasticizer is calendered or prefused to the bottom and side edges of the back and inner liner on one side of each fabric. The three plies of the collar are then placed together so that the tapes on the backing and the inner liner face the top ply which at this point is between the back and inner liner. rhe whole collar is then heated under pressure to a temperature slightly above the softening point of the resin for approximately 3 seconds until fused. The points are then trimmed to remove excess cloth and resin and the collar turned inside out, thus placing the three plies in their proper order in the finished collar. The points of the collar are then formed by pulling the end of the collar over a metal plate of the same shape as the collar point, pushing the assembly into a heated die and exerting pressure. The collar is then trimmed along its top edge, and resin tape 1/8" wide is used to fuse the inner liner to the top ply at the top edge. Another resin tape wide fuses the inner liner and backing at the top edge and is long enough to extend about l@ inch beyond the collar at its top edge. This eXtra tape is utilized later to fuse the plies of the collar band together in part. A ae" wide resin tape is next calender-ed to the neciband portion around the edges and after turning by pressing over a pattern, the shape of the band edge .but sgg" narrower, the bands are then fused to the collar top, thus completing the coilar which is now ready for attaching to a shirt body.

Collars as prepared above `were subjected to multiple washings and ironings. They were examined at periodic intervals. At the end of 60 washes the collars were still firmly fused and free of wrinkles or puckering usually common in sewn collars due to the shrinkage of the sewing threads. The color of the collars after this number of washes was still good.

Example 3 t A shirt may be constructed without any stitchmg by making use of the resin bonded seams illustrated in the previous examples. The parts going into the assembly of a shirt are cut in regular manner. The fabric used in the construction of the shirt is a plain-weave cotton fabric of 40/1 warp and filling yarns, weighing 4 ozs. per yard and having a count of 136 x 60. The three-ply collar is made as outlined in EX- ample 2. A thermoplastic resin tape made of 68 parts of vinyl chloride-vinyl acetate copolymer plasticized With 32 parts of di- (Z-ethyl hexyll phthalate, said tape being wide and .004" thick is used to bond the various parts of the shirt previously requiring sewing. The collar` is next attached by fusing the bands of the collar to the shirt, fusing each end and center first. Any eXtra material is gathered into place near the yoke of the shirt and the entire yband is fused to the shirt with heat and pressure.

Shirts as prepared above were subjected to a series of multiple Washings and ironings. The shirts were examined at periodic intervals and at the end of 60 washings the seams were still firmly fused. There was also no sign of puckering or wrinkling at the seams which is common with regular sewn seams due to the shrinkage of the sewing thread. The color of the seams remains good through these multiple washings and ironings.

Example 4 Any construction fabric may be used but in this case a plain-weave cotton broadcloth was encaisse used, composed of 40/1 warp... and filling'yarns, weighing 4.0 ozs. per yard and having' a1 count of 136 x 60. The thermoplastic lm used was nylon, .004 thick. A thin tape of nylon vwas placed between fabric plies, as illustrated'in Figs. 18, 19 and 20, respectively, and the several cornbinations of fabric and resin were placed between two steel platens electrically heated to approximately 500 F. (which is slightly above the softening temperatureV of the nylon film) and pressed together by hydraulic pressure of 133 lbs. per square inch. It was found that one second is sufficient time at this temperature and pressure to cause completev fusing of the seam. Seams as prepared above are highly resistant to multiple washings and ironings, and can not be s eparated on application of force `suiicient to tear the cloth. The seams were examined at periodic intervals and after 60washings and ironings were still firmly fused and free from puckering, usually common in seams due to the shrinkage of the sewing thread. There is also no unfavorable color developed.

While certain embodiments of the invention have thus been described and illustrated, vit vis to be understood that the invention is broadly inclusive of any and all applications of the basic principle hereinv disclosed and which fall within the terms of the appended claims. Y-

We claim: I i

1. A shirt collar in which the shrinkage and fabric puckering, heretofore due to stitching by thread, is prevented, which comprises a collar top portion having a plurality of superposed layers and a neckband portion also formed ofv a plurality of layers, the neckband portion overlapping along an edge thereof with an edge of said topporton, a-paper thin ribbon of a freely exible, thermoplastic resin,` disposed between said layers of each portion along their free marginal edges and, also betweeny abutting and slightly overlapping marginal edges of said portions, said ribbon being adherent to and uniting the layers' and portions with which it is in contact to provider alone adequate connection between them in lieu of stitching.

2. A shirt collar in whichrthe shrinkage and fabric puckering, heretofore due to the thread. stitching in the collar, is substantially reduced, which comprises a collar top formed ofv a facing layer, a lining layer, and a, backlayer, all three layers being superposed face to' face and having four marginal edges, a narrow, paper thin, freelyV flexible, ribbon of thermoplastic resin disposed between the lining layer and the facing and back layers along three corresponding and meeting marginal edges thereof, the neckband being formed of fabric layers disposed in face'frtoface, alignedA relation', a corresponding marginal` edge 8. ofeacli of. said neckband layers being disposed in overlapping relation with fourth marginal edge of the assembled collar top'layers, a narrow, paper thin, freely llexible ribbon of thermoplastic resin also disposed betweenr the neckband layers and the top layers atv said overlap, :said resin Abeing adherent tothe face surfaces of the fabrics of the layers engagedithereby but not substantially penetrating to the opposite faces of the layers,

whereby the collar is a complete unit requiringV no stitching.

3. IIr'i theemanufacture `of a shirt collar of the type having a collar top portion and a neckband portion where each portionis formed of a plurality of Ylayers superpose'd face to face and the layers oi the neckb'and portion'have corresponding marginal edges overlappingwith a marginal edgef'of the'as-sembled collar top layerspthat. improvement for substantially eliminating collar shrinkage and fabric puckering heretofore dueto shrinkage of the stitching by which the layers were connected in each .portion and the portions connected-together', which comprises the steps of interposing betweenl the superposed layers Yof each of said portions-bordering their free marginal edges and also'between the overlapping marginal edges of theV assembledv top 4portion and neckband portion, a narrow, paper thin, freely flexible thermoplastic resin, leaving the interior of ther superposed layers 'free of said resin, and ironing assembledr layers toY soften the interposed resin ribbon and cause it tov adhere to the fabrics of the layers engaged thereby without penetration to the' opposite faces of those layers.V

EDWARD-C. PFEFFER, JR. LAURENCEMMILLER. i

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